Skip to content
HatchCalc

Fence Picket Calculator

Pickets, posts, and rails for your fence run in one calculation.

Total length of the fence line, end to end.

0 in for a tight privacy fence; 1.5-2.5 in for a spaced picket look.

8 ft is standard; 6 ft uses more posts for a stiffer line.

2 for fences under 5 ft, 3 for 6 ft and taller.

Extra pickets for cutting, trimming, and mistakes.

Pickets needed

230pickets

Posts needed14
Sections13
Rail boards (8 ft, 3 rows)39

Rail boards assume one 8 ft rail per section per row — 8 ft stock covers a 6 ft or 8 ft section either way (cut down as needed). Each post also needs concrete to set it in the ground; that's a separate calculation based on your hole size, handled by the fence post concrete calculator.

The formula and a worked example

This calculator runs three separate counts off the same fence length. First, pickets — the fence line in inches divided by the width one picket takes up (its own width plus any gap), with your waste allowance added on top:

Pickets = ceil((run length in ÷ (picket width in + gap in)) × (1 + waste %))

Second, posts — the fence length divided by post spacing, rounded up to whole sections, plus one extra post to close off the far end:

Posts = ceil(run length ft ÷ post spacing ft) + 1

Third, rails — one rail board per section, per row, since each gap between two posts is one section that needs its own horizontal support:

Rails = (posts − 1) × rail rows

Worked example: a 100 ft privacy fence built with standard 5.5 in pickets, no gap, 8 ft post spacing, 3 rail rows, and a 5% waste allowance. Pickets: 100 ft × 12 = 1,200 in ÷ 5.5 in = 218.18, × 1.05 waste = 229.09, rounded up to 230 pickets. Posts: 100 ÷ 8 = 12.5, rounded up to 13 sections, + 1 = 14 posts. Rails: 13 sections × 3 rows = 39 rail boards. Those are exactly the numbers the calculator returns for these default values.

Privacy, spaced picket, and shadowbox styles

Privacy fencing uses zero gap — pickets butted edge to edge so there's no line of sight through the fence at all. This uses the most pickets per foot of run, but the least math: just picket width divided into the run length.

Spaced picket fencing leaves a visible gap between boards, commonly 1.5 to 2.5 in, for a more open, decorative look that still defines the property line. Fewer pickets are needed for the same run — the same 100 ft example above, with a 2 in gap instead of a tight fit, drops from 230 pickets down to about 168, since each picket now claims 7.5 in of the run instead of 5.5 in.

Shadowbox fencing (also called board-on-board) alternates pickets on the front and back of the rails, offset from each other, so the fence looks solid from either side while still allowing some airflow through the small gaps. Because pickets are installed on both faces, it needs roughly double the pickets of a single-sided privacy fence — but not quite double, since each side's pickets typically overlap the gaps on the opposite side by an inch or so rather than lining up exactly. As a rough estimate, plan on about 1.7 to 1.8 times the picket count of a standard privacy fence for the same length, then confirm against your specific picket width and overlap once you've settled on a layout.

Why gaps grow (or don't) after installation

Wood pickets are cut from a material that keeps moving after it's nailed up. Green or wet pressure-treated lumber, fresh from the treatment plant, is often still saturated with moisture when it's installed. As it dries out over the following weeks and months, it shrinks slightly in width — which is why many installers set those pickets tight, with no planned gap at all. The gap forms on its own as the wood dries, and building in an additional gap on top of that can leave the finished fence gappier than intended.

Kiln-dried lumber, cedar that's already cured, composite, and vinyl pickets behave differently — they've either already done most of their shrinking or they don't shrink the same way wood does at all. Those materials should be installed with whatever gap you actually want to see in the finished fence, since there's no drying process coming later to open one up for you. Composite and vinyl products specifically should follow the manufacturer's spec sheet, since recommended spacing can vary with the installation temperature and the specific product line.

Don't forget post depth and concrete

This calculator counts pickets, posts, and rails, but it doesn't size the holes those posts sit in. A common starting point is to bury about one third of each post's total length below grade, and to make sure the bottom of the hole sits below your local frost line — in colder climates the frost depth often matters more than the one-third rule, so it's worth checking with your local building department. Once you know your post size, hole diameter, and hole depth, the fence post concrete calculator on this site works out exactly how many bags of concrete you'll need to set each one, so it's worth running your post count from here straight into that tool next.

Frequently asked questions

How many pickets do I need for 100 feet of fence?

For a 100 ft privacy fence using standard 5.5 in pickets installed with no gap, plus a 5% waste allowance: 100 ft × 12 = 1,200 in of fence line, divided by 5.5 in per picket is 218.18, and adding 5% waste brings that to 229.09, rounded up to 230 pickets. That's the exact math this calculator runs for your own length, width, and waste choices above.

How many fence pickets per 8 foot section?

For a single 8 ft section (96 in) using standard 5.5 in pickets installed tight with no gap, you need 96 ÷ 5.5 = 17.45, rounded up to 18 pickets per section. That number changes with picket width and gap — spaced picket styles with a 2 in gap fit only about 13 pickets in the same 8 ft section, since each picket now takes up 7.5 in of the run instead of 5.5 in.

Should fence pickets touch?

It depends on the material. Wet, pressure-treated wood pickets are usually installed touching, or nearly touching, because the wood is still full of moisture and will shrink in width as it dries over the following months — a tight installation ends up with small natural gaps once it's fully dry. Dry lumber, cedar, composite, and vinyl pickets don't shrink the same way, so those are usually installed with a small fixed gap (often 1/8 to 1/4 in, or more for a spaced picket look) since there's no drying process to open one up on its own.

How many rails does a 6 foot fence need?

3 rail rows is the standard for a 6 ft fence — typically one near the top, one in the middle, and one near the bottom, giving the pickets three points of support along their height. Shorter fences, under about 5 ft, can usually get by with 2 rail rows. Taller privacy fences or fences carrying heavier panel materials sometimes use 4 rows for extra rigidity, though 3 is the common default.

How many fence posts do I need for 100 feet?

At the standard 8 ft post spacing, a 100 ft fence needs 100 ÷ 8 = 12.5, rounded up to 13 sections, plus one extra post to close both ends, for 14 posts total. Switching to tighter 6 ft spacing bumps that up to 18 posts for the same 100 ft run — more digging and more concrete, in exchange for a stiffer fence line with less flex between posts.

How much extra should I buy for waste?

5% is a reasonable default for a straight fence run with minimal cutting. Bump that up to 10% if the job involves a lot of end trimming, a gate opening that needs custom-fit pickets, an out-of-square property line, or sloped ground that requires stepping or racking the fence — all of which produce more unusable offcuts than a simple straight run between two fixed ends.

Related tools